Days 1 - 2
Trulli Country
 
We pick you up at either the Bari train station or airport. For those that arrive a day early, we meet you at our highly recommended pre-tour
ocean front hotel in Polignano a Mare (20’ from Bari). This 4-star hotel, owned by the local Baron, houses a fine restaurant within one of the two Grottoes within the hotel. Extremely reasonable in price the beautiful well-preserved medieval old town makes this an ideal pre-tour stop.
A short transfer brings us to
Alberobello, a UNESCO Heritage site
and declared national monument. This fairytale-like village of gnome-like structures is truly memorable. The ancestors of our friends and host, Dino and Antonella, have resided here for over 500 years and they provide us with not only great hospitality, but for each of us a trullo-house during our two-day stay. The trullo is an unusual stone house circular in shape with whitewashed walls and a gray slate cone-shaped roof often marked with mysterious symbols.
We get familiar with our bikes during a scenic warm-up loop that follows quiet scenic stone fence lined pathways rich in vineyards, oak saplings, and fruit trees to the whitewashed baroque town of Martina Franca. Situated on a high lying slope at the edge of Trulli country, we explore its many architectural treasures. The narrow winding lanes of the dense historic center lead us to an enormous Ducal Palace and offers splendid view of the region. On our return Dino conducts a wonderful village tour that includes a stop at a local winery for an extensive tour and
wine tasting of the fine local wines such as “Primitivo” which is sure to impress even the avid wine aficionado.
The next day’s full ride first stops at the
regions first church; dating 400AD, we then ride to the largest network of underground grottoes in Italy for an extensive tour through the colorful 2-kms of caves. On our return we stop off to
tour a local olive oil producer who still makes olive oil the traditional way using a stone press.
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Lodgings:
A unique and fairytale-like trullo in the heart of the historic trulli village
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Dinner: Excellent Osteria: 5-course menu with abundant choices.
Day 3
Leaving the Valley of Itria for White-washed Ostuni
Locorotondo and Cisternino mark the boundary to the Valley of Itria. Here, the trulli are last seen. The origin of the Trulli is uncertain, yet it is felt that the cone shape is of Eastern inspiration and may have been adopted in Puglia because it is easy to construct. Others claim that religious or magical reasons have led to their adoption as religious and astrological symbols are often painted on the roofs. As we ride within the Valley of Itria we get a chance to examine these theories up close as we enjoy one bellavista after another before
a 10-km downhill cruise through pine lead to the blue green waters of the Adriatic Sea. A quick dip is the ideal way to clean up for a delicious seafood lunch.
After lunch we stop en-route at the significant coastal
ruinous site of Egnazia where archeologists have uncovered remnants of early Greek and Roman civilizations. We then pedal to Ostuni through
ancient olive groves that truly mesmerize the viewer and leave one with the feeling that any minute one of them will speak; as if from the “Land of OZ”.
Whitewashed Ostuni, a town of pre-historic origin, has survived the ages and retains the most
typical of Apulian architecture in accordance with its historic growth. It is felt that through the ages it has succeeded in staying in perfect balance with the surrounding countryside. From the moment we approach from miles away, to the moment we enter the historic town center; it would be hard to argue against this observation.
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Lodging:
A beautiful 4-star hotel in the historic center.
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Dinner: Osteria along the historic Center's Ancient Walls
Day 4-6
Castles, Towers and Sea Grottoes
From Ostuni we ride across the long flat valley filled with vineyards and towns whose roots go back to Puglia's original inhabitants of 3000 B.C, the Messapi. We visit Oria, once capital of the Messapi then a major Roman trading center on the Apian Way, and evolving into
an important Jewish colony. Explore the triangular castle and an old town center loaded with architectural attractions as we cross the plains to the incomparable, Lecce.
Lecce has often been described as a
Baroque Jewel, and jewel it is. This lively town offers us a chance to enjoy an active evening within the unrivalled architecture of soft pink local stone used to build everything from the piazzas and town gates to the numerous churches that adorn this city of unparalleled beauty. During our first day off the bike we enjoy an
extensive private city tour that not only examines the fine Baroque structure, but stops by the renowned papier-mâché studios. You are then free to explore more of the city on your own or cycle to the sea
for a comfortable swim.
The following day we ride past the ruins of a castle from the Messapi period and through the pine forest surrounding
the Alimini Lakes. The Alimini Grande to the north is in contact with the Adriatic and is therefore salt water, while the Alimini Piccolo connected on the south end is nourished by a spring and is therefore fresh water. The landscape around both is tranquil and covered with vegetation typical to swampland—it’s interesting if you can see the differences in the nature of the two lakes where gray mullet and eel swim around the reeds.
Once we reach Otranto we take time to
explore. Otranto was the main port on the southern Adriatic under Byzantine rule, but today the ferry service for Corfu is the only surviving activity connected with the sea. On land, Otranto is a fairytale; medieval, whitewashed town featuring an
impressive Aragonese castle and a beautiful Byzantine Cathedral with an impressive floor covered in colorful mosaic. The picture perfect waterfront & great outdoors market makes for a timely rest before we take on our 2 hill climbs into a region of unmatched coastal beauty.
The grottoes around
Santa Cesarea Terme where we stay are exceptional. The
Grotto Zinzulusa, which can only be reached at low tide, is filled with stalagmite & stalactites of pastel hues that seem to come alive. If you suffer from rheumatic or respiratory disorders, the sulfurous & ionic springs are said to be effective.
Lodgings: 2 nights in a 4-star Patria Palace in medieval center of Lecce & one night at a 4-star hotel on sea with coastal views
Dinner:
One free night & one night at an outstanding family-run trattoria and one night at 4-star hotel along the sea.
Day 7 - 8
Island Town Gallipoli
Our ride starts off with a steep climb and begins what in my opinion is the finest coastal scenery anywhere on the Adriatic. This jagged coastline of jutting white rocks is lined with vineyards, pine and olive groves along
sheer limestone cliffs studded with colorful marine caves and prehistoric habitats. We examine several of the grotto, all worth a prolonged stop.
We soon pass through Castro, whose Greek roots and medieval past are evident by the Cathedral and well-preserved castle that stands at the entrance to the town. Then all too
soon we round the heel of Italy—a highlight in itself. Even though the port is rich in natural beauty and has a cultural history dating back to the Messapian era, as well as a medieval and Roman past, I find the lighthouse more of a realization of what we’re doing. The first time I rode this route, 15 years ago, a strange awareness of how far I was from the civilized world overcame me. How ironic, as much of history’s civilization had graced this same port in the quest of delivering civilization to the world.
The coast on the other side of the heel starts to flatten out and the dramatic high rocky coast gives way to a low-lying pine forest. With the wind at our back and a flat terrain in front of us we pass by a
charming fishing village then skirt the long beaches leading to quaint ports. Upon our first glimpse of Gallipoli in the distance, you know you are approaching a very special place.
We soon cross over its 17th century bridge to the little island known as “the city”. A medieval breakwater encloses the entire island within a network of twisting turning streets barricading the historic center and concurrent, oddly shaped white buildings.
Watching the fishermen work against this backdrop makes one realize why it’s often called one of the most scenic waterfronts in Italy, and we surely understand the Greeks’ aptly simple sobriquet: “Kalé polis”,
Greek for “beautiful town”.
Visit to the ancient underground olive oil presses that provided lamp oil for many centuries and were considered not only the leaders in the industry, but established pricing standard for the world. We later enjoy a farewell dinner at one of Italy’s finest seafood restaurants—frequented by such celebrities as Katherine Denuve and Pavarotti. The next day after breakfast we transfer to the main train station in Gallipoli as pre-arranged.
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Lodgings:
4-star B & B in the center of the medieval island.
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Dinner:
As described above
Transportation Logistics
*We advise flying into Bari and will provide information on many low cost airlines that fly within Italy and other cities in Europe to/from Bari.
Train departure times and tracks are subject to change, so verify before boarding.
Trains from Rome to Bari (tour start):
~5 hours
#9351 Roma Termini -07:38 am--arrival Bari Centrale ---12:23 pm
Day by day summary of highlights & mileages walked
All the towns & lodgings we stay are highlights in themselves. Other highlights are as follows:
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Day 1:
Ride 25 km / 15 miles, flat undulating terrain—Highlights: Trulli village, city tour of Alberobello, wine tasting and visit Martina Franca.
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Day 2:
Ride 43 km/27 miles & option for 27km/17miles additional-- undulating terrain.
Highlights: visit 2-mile underground grotto, olive oil tour and tasting.
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Day 3:
Ride 78 km/ 48 miles Undulating with a long downhill.
Highlights: Ancient Olive groves, and Valley of Etria, Egnazia ruins & white-washed Ostuni.
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Day 4:
Ride 105 km/ 65 miles or shorter ride-- Flat or downhill the entire day...
Highlights: Castle town of Oria.
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Day 5:
Day off or
Optional Ride to coast 43km / 27 miles—Flat terrain. Highlights: Private guided city tour of Lecce & wine tasting.
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Day 6:
Ride 75 km/ 45 miles. Flat with one big climb.
Highlights: Coastal fresh & salt water lakes and sea grottoes, spa town & medieval Otranto
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Day 7:
Ride 82 km / 50 miles—moderate ride with some early climbing then flat the rest of day.
Highlights: Round the heel of the boot of Italy, remote fishing villages and spectacular coastal ride.
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Day 8: Departure day…Gallipoli train station or as pre-arranged.
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Lunch
