Welcome to
Ferrara
From
Jesse's Journeys in
Italy
Population:
131,907
(2004)
Official website:
Ferrara
Wikipedia:
Ferrara
Map:
MapQuest
Located on a branch of the legendary
Po River in
Emilia Romagna, Ferrara is an
important industrial center of modern
Italy (agricultural products,
food-processing, chemicals,
pharmaceuticals, and machinery).
But Ferrara is also a city with a long,
multi-layered history that makes it
exceedingly interesting, artistically,
architecturally and culturally. Indeed,
in 1999, Unesco declared the city and
some parts of the surrounding Po delta
area, a
World Heritage Site, citing in
particular Farrara's almost perfectly
preserved Renaissance streets and
quarters.
Enter the centro storico - the
historical center - where
automobiles are banned (except for those
with a special permit) and one of the
first things you will notice is the
incredible number of bicycles.
Indeed, in Ferrara, there are more
bicycles than people.
The area, mostly marshy before
reclamation work, was settled by
Gaulish
tribes people, came under
Roman domination, was
subjected to the usual depredations of
invading barbarians, and then came under
Longobard
control. The Longobards were
conquered by the
Byzantines,
who, between the 7th and 10th centuries
AD, turned it into a fortified city - or
castrum.
Ferrara became an independent comune in
1155 AD but, like other Italian city
states of the time, over time came to be
ruled by a powerful family, the Este,
whose rule lasted for over 300 years
(1208-1598). During this period of
time, the old walls were demolished and
a new 9 kilometer long ring of walls
were built, along with many of the most
majestic and important of the buildings
which constitute the old city today.
Like other Italian courts of medieval
Italy, the Este court, perhaps second
only to the
Medici court of
Florence, patronized many of the
leading writers, musicians and artists
of the day, including
Pisanello,
Leon Battista Alberti,
Piero della Francesca,
Titian,
Torquato Tasso,
Gerolamo Frescobaldi and others.
During medieval times it was known
especially for its musical arts and for
the musicians who studied, taught and
played in Ferrara.
After Este rule came to an end, Ferrara
was absorbed into the
Papal States, and went into
serious decline until the beginning of
the 20th century, when its
architectural, artistic and cultural
history began to be re-discovered and
newly appreciated.
Ferrara's old city is bisected by two
broad avenues, dividing it into
quarters. The dominant buildings
within the centro historico are
the Duomo di San Giorgio - the
cathedral - and the Castello Estense,
center of power of the Este rulers.
The cathedral, a blend of
Romanesque
(lower and side facades) and
Gothic
(upper front facade) styles, was started
in 1115 AD, when the city became a free
comune, and was consecrated in 1135 AD.
A diocesan museum, with many more art
works and artifacts, sits across the
street.
The moated Castello Estense,
which was started in 1385 AD, is in the
very center of the city. It has
four towers, whose tops were originally
square. The castle was renovated
in 1554 AD, at which time, pavilions
were added to the tower tops.
Before moving into their castle, the
Estes originally held court in the
building that is now known as the
Palazzo Municipale, which was built
in the 13th century. The exterior
characterized by pointed arches, is
Gothic, but the interior, remodelled in
1712 is
Baroque.
The adjacent bell tower - the campanile
- was built in the
Renaissance
style between 1411 and 1493). An
additional story was added toward the
end of the 16th century.
There are a number of interesting,
sometimes beautiful palazzos, some big,
some small in Ferrara. Those built
during the Renaissance period are
especially noteworthy because they
retain much of the terracotta decoration
that has disappeared or been badly
damaged in other cities and towns.
Look particularly in the northern
quarter of the centro historico,
especially at the north east corner of
the main intersection.
The most striking palazzo is the
Palazzo dei Diamanti, so named
because the stone blocks of its facade
are cut in diamond shapes. The
Palazzo houses the National Picture
Gallery whose works include
masterpieces and lesser works of the
so-called School of Ferrara.
One can find important artifacts (coins,
choir books, miniatures)and frescoes
(life of Borso of Este, zodiacal signs,
allegories etc) in the Palazzo
Schifanoia (1385). The Gothic
style Palazzo della Ragione
(1315-1326) is also worth taking a look
at.
Ferrara does not lack for churches and
other religious buildings, including
many synagogues (and a Jewish museum).
We have noted the Duomo, but among the
important churches are those dedicated
to San Francesco, San Domenico, San
Benedetto, Paolo, San Cristoferor
and Santa Maria.
Other buildings worth a peek include the
Hospital of Santa Anna and the University
of Ferrara.
As pleasant as it is, you don't want to
spend all of your time wondering the
streets and visiting ancient buildings.
Ferrarese cuisine is wonderful (see side
bar) add there are a number of great
restaurants and cafes. Also, if
you have the energy for dancing, the
nightlife sparkles.
By Vian Andrews, August 31, 2006 |
